Eyüp Sabri was born in 1898 in Banja Luka,
now the capital of Republika Srpska, one of the
autonomous constituent entities of Bosnia and
Herzegovina. When the Austro-Hungarian
Empire annexed Bosnia in 1908, his father
Süleyman Agha and the rest of the family
moved first to İstanbul, and then to İnegöl in
the province of Bursa. For a while, Süleyman
Agha tried his hand at agriculture, but his
efforts did not pay off; in 1913 he opened a
grocery below his residence, but this time his
health worsened and he died shortly thereafter.
Young Eyüp Sabri now had the full weight
of his family on his shoulders; following
the advice of their neighbor Hilmi Bey, he
apprenticed himself to the chain of drapers
Abranosyan. What he learned of commerce
there and at his father’s store opened up new
horizons for him. In 1916, he established a
little drapery store in İnegöl’s covered bazaar,
but when Bursa was occupied in World War
I, he joined the army. The valor he showed
as a private during the War of Independence
earned him the İstiklâl Madalyası (Medal of
Independence) in 1926.
The war was now over and life continued as
before. Back in İnegöl, Eyüp Sabri Bey once
again went into business in 1923. On 29
October that same year, his son Sabahattin
was born. Both his family and his business
were growing, and this seemed like an
opportune moment to turn a new page. He
sold the family home and moved to Ankara,
the up and coming capital of the new Republic
of Turkey. Taking advantage of the rapidly
urbanizing and growing city, in 1927 he
opened a new retail store of the kind known
at the time as bonmarşe (from the French
bon marché), i.e. a department store. It was
situated at No. 46, Anafartalar Avenue, in a
building named Sakarya Apartmanı that had
been completed in 1923 and was owned by
Nuri (Conker) Bey, a childhood friend and
comrade-in-arms of Mustafa Kemal Pasha.
Although one was a private and the other a
commanding officer, Eyüp Sabri Bey and Nuri
Bey remained close friends for many years.
The store carried the name of Eyüp Sabri
Bey and offered a wide selection of items for
domestic use. In addition to custom-made
shirts, its primary line of business, the store
sold hats, scarves, handkerchiefs, socks, leather suitcases, handbags, umbrellas, and
other wares. It was best known for its shirts,
however, so that the commercial yearbook
Annuaire Oriental mentions it as a chemiserie
on Adliye Sarayı Avenue. Next to ready-towear
garments, Eyüp Sabri also sold perfumes,
so that his shop was listed among perfume
stores until 1930.
The “hat reform” of 1925, promulgated during
the early years of the Republic, provided
merchants with a new business opportunity,
and the shelves at Eyüp Sabri overflowed with
hats for both ladies and gentlemen. During
a trip to İstanbul, however, our entrepreneur
learned how to make eau de Cologne from a
local perfumer and that changed his life and
his family’s for ever. Sugar factories, at the
time the mainstay of the Republic’s industry,
had begun to produce alcohol as a by-product,
and this paved the way for a new line of
business. Eyüp Sabri Bey decided to go into
the production of Cologne, a venture that
would bring him great fame. Using imported
essential oils, he began to produce and sell
Cologne in 1933. His only competitor at
the time was Ömer Nail in Ankara’s district
of Ulus. Eyüp Sabri Bey’s products quickly
gained a following, and queues began to
form in front of his store. Bottles sent to the
Presidential Mansion at Çankaya were offered
to Atatürk’s guests, including Reza Shah
Pahlavi who took a great liking to Eyüp Sabri
Bey’s Cologne. An order for six bottles came
from Çankaya; the bottles were meticulously
packed and were soon off to the Palace of the
Shah of Iran.
Eyüp Sabri also added vitality to Ankara’s
commercial scene during the 1930s. Using
unconventional promotional campaigns, he
brought renown to his store as well as making
his products into household names. His
most important venture in this respect was a
product catalogue. Printed as a brochure, the
catalogue was left at doorsteps and mailboxes in order to popularize Cologne as a consumer
item. Each catalogue contained a coupon for
free Cologne, and customers were allowed
to redeem them by choosing any one of
twelve or thirteen kinds of Cologne. For many
families, this experience made Cologne into
an indispensable household item. The offer
of free Cologne soon pushed demand for it
above all other products sold at the store. A
catalogue apparently printed in 1936 lists the
business owners as the “Brothers Eyüp Sabri,
Muharrem, and Mehmet Tuncer.” It lists hats,
caps, shirts, neckties, collars, scarves, socks,
pajamas, sweaters, gloves, bags, umbrellas,
slippers, light footwear called şason (from
the French chausson), and perfumes. The
illustrations in the catalogue were all drawn
by Eyüp Sabri Bey himself, who also designed
a motto for each product. Thus, the catalogue
ingenuously declared that “We aim to sell
products with which our customers will be
satisfied.”
Eyüp Sabri Bey went to great lengths
to publicize his Cologne. These were
unprecedented methods at the time. Not
only would Cologne be sprinkled at cinemas
and theaters and free samples offered, but
he would personally carry barrels of the
product to the Atatürk Forest Farm where he
would address the public at the train station,
describe his product, and offer free samples.
While Cologne was the product that set Eyüp
Sabri apart from his competitors, the shortage
of foreign currency during World War II led
to limitations on the importation of foreign
fragrances. This deprived Cologne producers
of one of the most important ingredients, and
Eyüp Sabri Bey’s store lost its main point of
attraction.
Under these prevailing conditions, the
enterprise turned its attention during the
1940s to garments such as pajamas, which
could be produced with the help of family
members. Commercial records once again
mentioned Eyüp Sabri Tuncer as a seller of
drapery, perfumes, hats, and garments. While
the store’s street number changed a number
of times, its actual location on Anafartalar
Avenue —also known as Çocuksarayı and
Adliye Avenue— remained the same. The
most popular among the products marketed
during the 1940s and 50s were custom shirts
and pajamas. A fire damaged the store in 1942,
but the dedicated efforts of family members,
along with the popularity of Eyüp Sabri’s
products, allowed the business the weather
this adversity.
Eyüp Sabri Bey’s son Sabahattin Tuncer graduated from high school around this
time, after which he attended the Faculty of
Agriculture for three years. He then gave
in to his father’s wishes, however, and took
over the management of the firm under his
father’s supervision. Foremost on his mind, as
had been on his father’s many years earlier,
was the production of Cologne. The business
climate had changed and the postwar boom
brought the family new prosperity. It is under
these conditions that Sabahattin Tuncer
began his own quest. While seeking to learn
the subtleties of the trade, he met the chemist
Vahe Karayan; he conducted some business
with him, but what really opened his eyes
was a book he found in Karayan’s library:
Félix Cola’s Le Livre Du Parfumeur (1931). In
it he found not only the formulae he needed
but also the names of the foremost fragrance
producers in Europe.
Sabahattin Bey wrote to foreign producers and
asked for information about their products.
After a long wait, he only received one reply,
from the firm L. Givaudan. After alleviating
his father’s concerns, he ordered a small
shipment of fragrance and produced the first
batch of lemon Cologne fairly inexpensively.
This low cost allowed the brand Eyüp Sabri Tuncer to increase its value significantly. Low
prices attracted customers, and the queue for
Cologne grew once again.
Run by its founder and his two sons, the
business was incorporated in 1961 as the
unlimited liability company “Eyüp Sabri
Tuncer & Sons.” The next task was to produce
the fragrances locally. Sabahattin Bey traveled
abroad to learn more on the subject, and
in 1967 developed a new formula for his
own lemon Cologne. In 1970 he converted
a building on Işıklar Avenue in the district
of Ulus into a factory where fragrances
and Cologne were produced domestically.
Sabahattin Bey took over the business in 1972
and decided, given that there were multiple
partners, to convert Eyüp Sabri Tuncer into a
joint stock company and go public.
Eyüp Sabri Tuncer has been a symbol of the
city of Ankara. When Savaş Sönmez of the
newspaper Cumhuriyet wrote down conditions
for being a genuine Ankaralı (Ankara dweller),
he mentioned “filling up with Cologne at
Eyüp Sabri Tuncer.” Directions in Ankara
are often given with respect to the Eyüp Sabri
Tuncer store, to which reference is made as
“Ankara’s Cologne seller.” Among the many
fans of Sabahattin Bey’s ever-present Cologne
was the popular singer Zeki Müren.
By the 1980s, Eyüp Sabri Tuncer’s eau de
Cologne had become universally known
throughout Turkey, one of the first brands
that came to mind when mention was made of
fragrances. What was left from the little store
opened in the 1920s was not only a family
legacy but also a business ethic. Everything
was to be on record, taxes would be paid in
full, customers’ rights would be respected,
their satisfaction would be guaranteed, and
it would never be forgotten that the store’s
silent partner was the Republic of Turkey. These principles must have found favor
with the state, for when the value-added
tax was launched in 1985, one of the pilot
establishments selected by the government
was Eyüp Sabri Tuncer.
In 1994, Engin Tuncer took over management
of the business from his father. The company
stock, mostly held by family members, was
consolidated. Like his father, Engin Tuncer
had dreams; in particular, he wished to make
the national brand international while at the
same time preserving its classical products.
Thus, the company has made inroads into
both domestic and international markets with
organic scents and self-care products such as
EST 1923 and Perfume Jewels. With a century
of experience, the name Eyüp Sabri Tuncer is
a source of pride for both family members and
the country.